Make sure they are smaller than the heads of the screws though. Take the screen and put it aside for now, next, use a drill with a bit slightly larger than the bolts that come with the screen kit and carefully drill out your holes. If you want to hard mount it to your acrylic window like I did on my original build, to get your holes drilled in the correct spots, just set the screen face down on the acryllic where you want to have it mounted, hold it there snugly and use something sharp (I used a tiny screwdriver) to go through each corner hole to make marks where your bolt holes are on each corner. Pictures for mounting instructions for you visual learners like myself PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH ADAPTER IS WHICH WHEN PURCHASING, THEY'RE VERY EASY TO MIX UP How you plan to route the cable will determine which adapter you will need. One of these adapters to make the HDMI cable run straight down (I actually use two additional 270 degree adapters to attatch both of the HDMI cables I have running into my graphics card so the cables run parallel to the case instead of straight into it, personal preference) This is for one of each, you'll need the 270 to make the HDMI cable run towards the back of your case.Įdit 8/8/21 I found some INTERNAL USB 2.0 header mounted ports that should help with the USB power cable needing to snake outside of the case also. The adapters: 90 or 270 degree HDMI angled adapter UPDATED LINK. (Read the bottom of this post if you only have one HDMI port on your GPU) Ultra slim makes it much easier to cable manage, and for the size of the screen you won't have any issues with it. The cable: 3ft ultra slim HDMI UPDATED LINK. Not to mention it gives you more options on how to use the screen. You can buy one without the bracket (You have to put it on yourself anyhow) but I feel like it helps protect the PCB and screen itself. UPDATED LINK 1/17/21 ((Now this is one that comes with the acrylic bracket that I used the hardware from to get it all mounted. The monitor itself: 5" HDMI Rasberry Pi Touchscreen LCD. In this case, it's worth waiting the extra week or so because you save yourself almost $20. Now, you have two options, buy from china and save a good bit, or buy from the US and spend way more than $50. You can use it with a Rpie and remote into it if you please, but you'll still have cables running for the Rpie itself, and that will increase the cost drastically So I decided this wasn't gonna cut it and I embarked on a journey to find the best working and best looking hardware monitor I could build.īefore I start with everything, with my method I use the screen as an extension of my desktop, and I route the HDMI cable it uses through my case, out the back and up into my video card. Or you can buy a 5.25" bay insert, if you're really desperate. You can just go oldschool and use an overlay, totally ruining the beauty of the game you painstakingly built your PC to experience with it's bright yellow or green 8 bit font. They look horrible, are usually bulky and annoying to look at or use, and they can only do a small handfull of things. However, the options that are currently available "commercially" quite plainly suck. Temps, clock speeds, useage, and framerates are all things that are very nice to be able to watch while you have a game fullscreen. Hardware monitors are essential for overclockers, and just overall a super handy resource even for regular PC users/gamers. I came up with this mod a while back shortly after I built my first rig (you'll see it later on) and posted it on the overclock forum, but hadn't formatted it for Reddit, so I figured I'd finally get around to that!
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